Turks and Caicos



Turks and Caicos view

On the morning of May 25, we left Ocean World Marina in Puerto Plata for an overnight sail to South Side Marina in the Turks and Caicos.  We left with Rod and Evelyne on Manatee and were joined a bit later by Marie Ann and Frederic on Madukera.  I realize that I have not introduced Marie Ann and Frederic.  They are French and are residents of the French Department of Guadalupe where they have made their home for nearly 30 years and raised their four children.  Rod and Evelyne met them earlier in their trip and the four spent time traveling together in the Caribbean.  This was especially nice for Evelyne who is also French and for Rod who is American but fluent in French.  Marie Ann is a retired English teacher, so we immediately had a connection.  It would seem that French students and American students are similar in many ways.  Frederic is a math/computer whiz who, many years ago, developed a computerized system for doing inventory for a major chain store in France.  He was asked if he would like to do the same thing in the Caribbean, so off they went, first to Martinique for a year, and then to Guadalupe where they have lived ever since.  Marie Ann is fluent in English and Frederic is a beginner but is fearless when it comes to speaking so he is making huge strides.  (Darn, I just can't get away from making those teacher-ly comments.)  It is a pleasure to know them.

With our disabled main sail, we were able to tie in a third reef, which means that we may only hoist the sail about half way.  We were able to sail a bit but mostly had to motor-sail to keep up with Manatee.  We wanted to arrive at South Side Marina by 1100 to get into the channel on the high tide with our five-foot drafts.  Madukera is a beautiful Beneteau Oceanis 41 with a nice, large main sail, so they were able to sail without motor the entire way.  They needed to anchor outside the channel to wait for the second high tide to accommodate their six-foot draft which wasn't until 10:00 that night.  They had ridden through the channel in the afternoon so were familiar with it, but still it is never fun to come into a channel in the dark.  So many lights on shore can be confusing.  But they came right in without a problem and we were all there to catch their lines at the dock. 

Channel entrance to South Side Marina.  Notice the dark area that is shallow coral. 

Bob Pratt, the marina owner, is a really helpful guy and built this marina about five years ago.  It is small and friendly.  While here, we met a couple, Wayne and Diane, on Long Legged Lady, a trawler.  Bob has built a little outdoor restaurant up on the hill by his house that has a beautiful view of the harbor and sea.  He is searching for the right person to take on the restaurant -- Any takers?  As it was just we four couples, we had two barbeques and a few happy hours there.  The first barbeque was with the big-eye (we think) tuna  that Dave caught on the way.  It was a good three feet long and fat!  He had a tough time getting it in the boat, but he did.  It was a beautiful fish and tasted yummy!  Everyone contributed an appetizer, side dish or dessert, and it was a veritable feast!



Dave with his catch.  Notice that Dave is tethered
to the blue jackline that runs along the deck as it was pretty bouncy



Another view of the fish.  Anyone care to verify that this is a big-eye tuna?

Wayward Wind at the dock with Madukera on the right and Manatee on the left.

The other night we all decided to go out to eat at the Tiki Hut restaurant because Wednesday was barbequed rib night.  We teased Frederic because, like a good Frenchman, he insisted on eating his ribs with a fork and knife.  Eventually he succumbed to peer pressure and picked up his ribs in all their gooey glory and ate them with his fingers.  He did not appear to be embracing the new strategy, though he did manage to finish his ribs.  The next day, he said, "My hands are still sticky."

Between Diane in red shirt and her husband, Wayne, in blue shirt, sit Frederic and Marie Ann. 
Proof the Frederic ate ribs with his fingers.

We have had to wait several extra days here due to overly blustery weather and squalls out there.  We are nice and cozy inside the marina and have been doing, what else, boat maintenance.   Unfortunately last night we awoke to a rustling noise and discovered either a large mouse or small rat is on board.  (Can we please catch a break?)  Set a rat trap that I'd brought along then went to the store to buy more traps.  I hope we catch it tonight. 

Tomorrow morning we head out for Atwood Harbour on Acklins Island in the Bahamas.  It is another overnight trip.  We should arrive early the next day.  We'll rest that day and night, and then on Thursday morning, we plan on continuing to George Town on another overnight trip.  Plans, of course, are subject to change.

Thank you for reading the blog and I hope that everyone is well.




Hey, this reminds me of somone...

Caps for sale...



Puerto Plata, DR



The Beautiful Dominican Republic

We left Puerto Bahia Marina in Samaná on May 19 to do an overnight trip to the north coast of the DR.  Our friends on Manatee had planned to go to Ocean World Marina near Puerto Plata and we would continue to Luperón where we would  anchor and spend a few days.  The plan was to stay in touch and leave at the same time to travel together on the next overnight trip to the Turks and Caicos.  It was drizzly when we left, but that was good because the normally brisk trade winds were deadened and there was little chop as we headed east for two hours out of Samaná Bay.  Curving around the point to the northwest though was a different story.  Lots of confused seas and very bouncy.  My tummy was not happy, though I'm sure the extra Ti Punch the evening before did not help.  Anyway, once we were heading west, the seas were behind us and the wind was pushing us along nicely.  In fact, in order to slow up and stay right with Manatee (shorter and therefore slower) we came about and did criss-cross tacks behind them.  Rather comical, indeed, but it worked. 

Just before midnight, Dave was sleeping below and I was at the helm.  We were sailing along downwind, wing-on-wing (one sail on the port and one sail on the starboard side) and doing well, but I had to watch the wind direction carefully so as not to accidentally jibe (the boom swings rapidly and powerfully to the other side).  I'd intended to put up a preventor (lines that keep the boom from jibing) as soon as Dave came up for his watch.  Unfortunately I got distracted and jibed accidentally.  Bad move!  At first it seemed that no harm was done and we were sailing along quite nicely.  But at closer examination, we noticed that the main sail had ripped right above the second reef.  Oh, no!  We doused the sail and turned on the motor.  What a letdown.  If we'd really damaged the sail, a new sail would cost thousands and a lot of time.  



Rod and Dave removing our 611 square foot main sail...and dat's alotta sail!

We decided to go with Manatee to the marina as it would be a lot easier to remove our humongous sail and get it into a car at the dock rather than dealing with it in our dinghy while at anchor.  We arrived at the marina exhausted and downtrodden.  We raised the sail to show Rod and Evelyne and to examine the damage.  Fortunately we discovered that a seam had ripped out and would just need to be restitched.  I contacted a sail repair guy, Ron, in Luperón who thought he could help us out, and I reserved a rental car.  What a relief!  We slept peacefully that night.  The next morning at 7:00am, Rod and Evelyne helped us take down the sail and by 9:00, we were on the road to Luperón.  Unfortunately the rip is right in the middle of the sail and the sail Ron's sewing machine, though heavy duty, was too small to handle the bulk of the sail.  Sigh.  We loaded the sail back into the car and off we drove.



Ron, the sail repairman, showing us his friend's home where his shop is located.  It was spectacular.

Swim, anyone?

Undaunted, we decided to make a day of it by driving north and west to explore.  In La Isabella, we found a rustic little beachfront restaurant and enjoyed a leisurely lobster lunch.  The restaurant was barebones and without running water.  A little toddler and his big sister ran around while their parents prepared the meal.  I can't imagine a more idyllic place to spend an early childhood.  About halfway through our meal, things livened up as a busload of schoolkids (Gr.2-12) arrived for lunch.  I had to use my teacher attitude to get one kid seated right behind me to stop yelling for his friend, but he got it and actually they were very polite.  AND they ate fish and lobster for lunch.  Hmm...I don't remember eating lobster on school field trips.  Our lobster was accompanied with rice, beans, fried plantains, French fries and salad.  We had coffee and flan for dessert.  Life is good. 

Rod, Evelyne, Linda and Dave enjoying lobster lunch

School girls playing in an old fishing boat

After lunch, we drove a mile to El Castillo where the ruins of the first European settlement of the New World was established by Christopher Columbus in 1493.  Up to 5000 people lived there until 1502 when the new capital was established in Santo Domingo.  It is clear to see why this location was chosen for settlement.  It is situated on a point that provides a defensive advantage and sits on a large sandy bottom bay suitable for the ships of the day.  An interesting story is that in the 1950s, the dictator Trujillo ordered a crew to "clean up" the site before a group of archaeologists from Spain visited.  The crew bulldozed the intact ruins into the sea!  Rumor has it the the bulldozer driver was executed.  Nevertheless, the ruins were restored and it is an interesting site.  A Spanish-speaking guide accompanied us, which made for a fun translation challenge.  The visitor center is also quite nice and informative with beautiful murals painted on the exterior walls. 

La Isabela named after Queen Isabela



Ancient art is...

reflected in beautiful murals



Where Columbus entered the bay



Our guide showing us the site

Where the first mass was performed.  A church once stood here.



The footprint of Columbus' residence

Overlookng the bay

Showing us how the roof tiles were made

On the way home, we took a rural, unpaved route up a Rio Bajabonico valley.  It was nice to see another side of the DR, far from tourists.  People looked healthy and happy.  Many small colmados (little stores) dotted the roads.  Gardens flourished.  Backpack-sporting kids in light blue shirts and khaki trousers and skirts played with each other while they walked home from school.  Men sat on porches and the occasional donkey and horse delivered riders to their destination.  Communities seemed vibrant.


Entrance to Ocean World Marina

We stayed at a marina called Ocean World.  "Tacky" does not begin to describe this place.  It bills itself as a "destination" with casinos, restaurants, water adventures such as swimming with dolphins and sea marine life shows and more!  But it just comes off as tacky.  The staff was friendly and helpful, so that was a plus. 



On our way up the mountain

View of Puerto Plata

These school kids enthusiastically acted out a story told by their teacher about a ship at sea rolling in the wind and waves.

The statue is a replica of the one in Rio de Janeiro

On another day, the four of us hired a driver and visited Puerto Plata, the third largest city in the DR. On the way, we rode a tram up a mountain for some spectacular views.  In Puerto Plata, interestingly, a number of Victorian houses line the central square.  It is unusual to see so many wooden structures here in the DR.  We had an excellent lunch of pulpo (octopus) and mofongo (mashed fried plantains), rice and salad.  We then went to the Amber Museum where we learned that the amber in the DR comes from a particular tree that is now extinct.  We also learned about blue amber that has iron in it and gives off a blue blow when placed under a blacklight.

Plaza de Puerto Plata

Blue amber appears blue when under a black light

We also visited the main fort which houses an excellent museum and is situated on a lovely point overlooking the city, harbor and coastline. 



Fortaleza San Felipe

Also known as El Morro

On the way back, we stopped at a large and modern grocery store to provision before heading to the (expensive) Turks and Caicos.  We all enjoyed visiting the pleasant city of Puerto Plata.

Ciudad Colonial, Santo Domingo

On May 15, 16, and 17, we visited the Ciudad Coloniál or Zona Coloniál (Colonial City or Colonial Zone), which is the original walled city of Santo Domingo and is the oldest permanent European settlement of the New World.  The city contains many other New World "firsts" such as the first cathedral, hospital, customs house and university.  It is also a UNESCO World Heritage site - http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/526 .  The zone has its run-down areas, but the government is financing refurbishing projects and local entrepreneurs are also creating small shops, businesses and restaurants, so it is a dynamic and energetic place.  I took many, many photos so will simply provide captions.   I think the last photo aptly sums up the feeling of the Zone.



Let's explore the old city!

But first, let's eat!  Yummy grilled chicken, rice, beans and salad.

 


















Locals enjoying the afternoon



Residence of the Diego Colon family, governor of the city and son of Christopher Columbus.  It is now a museum.



Calle las Damas (Ladies' Street) built by Diego Colon so that the women in his family
could go for afternoon strolls without mussing their dresses.  First paved street in the New World.
 

Dulces!!



Entrance to Museo de las Casas Reales (Museum of the Royal Houses)
It served as the Palace of the Governor and Royal Court.  It was interesting to read about the justice and legislative system.

Sundial seen from Casas de las Reales

"Clock of the Sun" built in 1753



Looking out at the sundial



Interior room

Royal peacock.  The peahen is hiding behind the palm while Papa struts his stuff.
 

The first cathedral of the New World.  Statue of Columbus in foreground.

We were interviewed by these perky college students who were practicing their English.  They asked us what we liked about the colonial zone and what we thought needed improvement.  We said we liked the people and the music and that we didn't like the garbage and suggested there needed to be an education campaign to promote a clean city.  They agreed with that.

Playing speed chess...only 5 minutes per game. 

Street art

La Cafetera Coloniál hasn't changed in decades, they say.  Great fresh guava juice!

Maybe we need one of these in the US...



Honoring a teacher...

and promoter of education for girls.

Social commentary...not sure exactly what it means.  Something about assasins and bullshit.  Any translations?

Hopefully this video of street music in the Parque Colon will play for you.  I've been humming this tune to myself the past day or two.  Music is everywhere in the DR.  I particularly enjoy Latin music while I'm shopping for groceries. 


And last but not least...



I love the Zone