Puerto Plata, DR



The Beautiful Dominican Republic

We left Puerto Bahia Marina in Samaná on May 19 to do an overnight trip to the north coast of the DR.  Our friends on Manatee had planned to go to Ocean World Marina near Puerto Plata and we would continue to Luperón where we would  anchor and spend a few days.  The plan was to stay in touch and leave at the same time to travel together on the next overnight trip to the Turks and Caicos.  It was drizzly when we left, but that was good because the normally brisk trade winds were deadened and there was little chop as we headed east for two hours out of Samaná Bay.  Curving around the point to the northwest though was a different story.  Lots of confused seas and very bouncy.  My tummy was not happy, though I'm sure the extra Ti Punch the evening before did not help.  Anyway, once we were heading west, the seas were behind us and the wind was pushing us along nicely.  In fact, in order to slow up and stay right with Manatee (shorter and therefore slower) we came about and did criss-cross tacks behind them.  Rather comical, indeed, but it worked. 

Just before midnight, Dave was sleeping below and I was at the helm.  We were sailing along downwind, wing-on-wing (one sail on the port and one sail on the starboard side) and doing well, but I had to watch the wind direction carefully so as not to accidentally jibe (the boom swings rapidly and powerfully to the other side).  I'd intended to put up a preventor (lines that keep the boom from jibing) as soon as Dave came up for his watch.  Unfortunately I got distracted and jibed accidentally.  Bad move!  At first it seemed that no harm was done and we were sailing along quite nicely.  But at closer examination, we noticed that the main sail had ripped right above the second reef.  Oh, no!  We doused the sail and turned on the motor.  What a letdown.  If we'd really damaged the sail, a new sail would cost thousands and a lot of time.  



Rod and Dave removing our 611 square foot main sail...and dat's alotta sail!

We decided to go with Manatee to the marina as it would be a lot easier to remove our humongous sail and get it into a car at the dock rather than dealing with it in our dinghy while at anchor.  We arrived at the marina exhausted and downtrodden.  We raised the sail to show Rod and Evelyne and to examine the damage.  Fortunately we discovered that a seam had ripped out and would just need to be restitched.  I contacted a sail repair guy, Ron, in Luperón who thought he could help us out, and I reserved a rental car.  What a relief!  We slept peacefully that night.  The next morning at 7:00am, Rod and Evelyne helped us take down the sail and by 9:00, we were on the road to Luperón.  Unfortunately the rip is right in the middle of the sail and the sail Ron's sewing machine, though heavy duty, was too small to handle the bulk of the sail.  Sigh.  We loaded the sail back into the car and off we drove.



Ron, the sail repairman, showing us his friend's home where his shop is located.  It was spectacular.

Swim, anyone?

Undaunted, we decided to make a day of it by driving north and west to explore.  In La Isabella, we found a rustic little beachfront restaurant and enjoyed a leisurely lobster lunch.  The restaurant was barebones and without running water.  A little toddler and his big sister ran around while their parents prepared the meal.  I can't imagine a more idyllic place to spend an early childhood.  About halfway through our meal, things livened up as a busload of schoolkids (Gr.2-12) arrived for lunch.  I had to use my teacher attitude to get one kid seated right behind me to stop yelling for his friend, but he got it and actually they were very polite.  AND they ate fish and lobster for lunch.  Hmm...I don't remember eating lobster on school field trips.  Our lobster was accompanied with rice, beans, fried plantains, French fries and salad.  We had coffee and flan for dessert.  Life is good. 

Rod, Evelyne, Linda and Dave enjoying lobster lunch

School girls playing in an old fishing boat

After lunch, we drove a mile to El Castillo where the ruins of the first European settlement of the New World was established by Christopher Columbus in 1493.  Up to 5000 people lived there until 1502 when the new capital was established in Santo Domingo.  It is clear to see why this location was chosen for settlement.  It is situated on a point that provides a defensive advantage and sits on a large sandy bottom bay suitable for the ships of the day.  An interesting story is that in the 1950s, the dictator Trujillo ordered a crew to "clean up" the site before a group of archaeologists from Spain visited.  The crew bulldozed the intact ruins into the sea!  Rumor has it the the bulldozer driver was executed.  Nevertheless, the ruins were restored and it is an interesting site.  A Spanish-speaking guide accompanied us, which made for a fun translation challenge.  The visitor center is also quite nice and informative with beautiful murals painted on the exterior walls. 

La Isabela named after Queen Isabela



Ancient art is...

reflected in beautiful murals



Where Columbus entered the bay



Our guide showing us the site

Where the first mass was performed.  A church once stood here.



The footprint of Columbus' residence

Overlookng the bay

Showing us how the roof tiles were made

On the way home, we took a rural, unpaved route up a Rio Bajabonico valley.  It was nice to see another side of the DR, far from tourists.  People looked healthy and happy.  Many small colmados (little stores) dotted the roads.  Gardens flourished.  Backpack-sporting kids in light blue shirts and khaki trousers and skirts played with each other while they walked home from school.  Men sat on porches and the occasional donkey and horse delivered riders to their destination.  Communities seemed vibrant.


Entrance to Ocean World Marina

We stayed at a marina called Ocean World.  "Tacky" does not begin to describe this place.  It bills itself as a "destination" with casinos, restaurants, water adventures such as swimming with dolphins and sea marine life shows and more!  But it just comes off as tacky.  The staff was friendly and helpful, so that was a plus. 



On our way up the mountain

View of Puerto Plata

These school kids enthusiastically acted out a story told by their teacher about a ship at sea rolling in the wind and waves.

The statue is a replica of the one in Rio de Janeiro

On another day, the four of us hired a driver and visited Puerto Plata, the third largest city in the DR. On the way, we rode a tram up a mountain for some spectacular views.  In Puerto Plata, interestingly, a number of Victorian houses line the central square.  It is unusual to see so many wooden structures here in the DR.  We had an excellent lunch of pulpo (octopus) and mofongo (mashed fried plantains), rice and salad.  We then went to the Amber Museum where we learned that the amber in the DR comes from a particular tree that is now extinct.  We also learned about blue amber that has iron in it and gives off a blue blow when placed under a blacklight.

Plaza de Puerto Plata

Blue amber appears blue when under a black light

We also visited the main fort which houses an excellent museum and is situated on a lovely point overlooking the city, harbor and coastline. 



Fortaleza San Felipe

Also known as El Morro

On the way back, we stopped at a large and modern grocery store to provision before heading to the (expensive) Turks and Caicos.  We all enjoyed visiting the pleasant city of Puerto Plata.