The Dismal Swamp to Elizabeth City

12/07/11

In The Dismal Swamp

We had an easy motor from Portsmouth to the Dismal Swamp.   We shared a good laugh when Dave said, “I’m so happy to be in the Dismal Swamp.”  Actually it isn’t what we’d imagined.  The trees looked right – stark, bare, and scraggly – but the ground beyond the canal was fairly dry. 

Inside Deep Creek Lock

Dave holding the stern line (Linda is at the bow line)

We entered the Deep Creek Lock where we rose eight feet to the water level of the canal.  The lock tender was a kind, older gentleman who said he'd worked at the lock for 17 years. 

 

Lock Tender and Lock House

He helped us loop our lines -- one at the bow and one at the stern -- around the yellow metal posts onshore.  One end of each line is tied to the boat and one is loose (the bitter end).  We snug fenders (cushions) between the boat and the wall of the lock.  As the water rushes in and rises, we pull on the bitter end to keep us against the wall.  It's a gas!

 

We learned at the Visitors Center that long ago virtually all of the hardwood trees were logged which drastically dried the soil.  We arrived early enough to go for a walk in the Dismal Swamp State Park.  It was nice to be out in nature again.  Saw many Black Bear droppings. 

Wayward Wind docked at The Dismal Swamp Visitors Center

Across from the park is another visitor center that is located at a highway rest stop that also has a 150 foot dock that is free to boaters.  After our walk in the park, a motor catamaran, then a 54-foot schooner with a young woman perched way up in the rigging reading a book pulled in.  The captain of the schooner, Tam, chatted with us.  He and his friend, John, who is an experienced sailor along with three young adults who are not experienced, sailed down from Nova Scotia and are headed for the Bahamas.  Tam bought the skipjack hull of his boat that was hand made by another gentleman, then completely built everything else himself.  It took him five years.  The masts are made from red spruce harvested not far from his home.  He stripped them and then dried them for three years.  The boat is Ask For, and I will have to ask for an explanation of why he named her so.  She’s a beauty. 

Ask For in the Dismal Swamp

This morning the three boats left to pass through the South Mills Lock at the 8:30 opening.  The catamaran sped off, and Ask For followed us.  We motored out of the Canal and into the Pasquotank River.  The twenty miles of river were the prettiest part of the trip.  Here is where we passed genuine swamp land. 

WW wedged in her slip at the Elizabeth City public dock

We got to Elizabeth City around noon so had time to explore.  The docking was a little tricky in the strong breeze.  Dave expertly slid WW into the narrow 14-foot wide slip especially given our beam of 13'6".  Fortunately there were three other boaters onshore to catch lines and help us get adjusted. 

Hey, TJ, we're close to Kitty Hawk

We had a lovely walk downtown in the warm afternoon.  Elizabeth City reminds me of downtown Napa in the early 60s with a department store, druggist, shoe store and so on.  (I half-expected to see Bob Hennessey and the Golden Goose - only old Napans will remember Schalow's Shoe Store on First St.).  Other than a few empty store fronts, it seems to be a viable town.  So glad to see this.  I visited the Albemarle Museum, a beautiful new building with a fine local history exhibit and two special exhibits – one of North Carolina pottery and another of a photojournalist from Charlotte – both interesting. 

Dave went for a longer walk through town and found a bakery that had hot freshly baked bread.  We met up and sat on a bench where we tore off warm doughy pieces and gobbled them down.  Tam strolled by so we shared our delicious discovery with him.  While we chatted, the perkiest police officer I’ve ever met stopped by to register our boats.  Officer Brooks, who seemed like your bubbly and bright aunt, shook our hands and welcomed us to Elizabeth City.  Tam wandered off to explore the town, and since the three of us had managed to eat half of a loaf, Dave and I headed to the bakery for more bread.  On our way, a woman walking her dog approached us and exclaimed, "Petaluma!  I used to live in Petaluma!"  Sue Geiger had seen my "Petaluma is for Lovers" shirt and stopped to chat.  She now lives in Elizabeth City and works for a nearby college.  Quite a coincidental meeting, thanks our sweet friend Ruby who had given me her P-town shirt.  Dave and I stopped by a mint green shop with a pink awning called The Cupcakery.  I asked for a pecan coconut cookie.  A fellow patron kindly said, “You must not be from around here.  It’s 'peCAN.'” (not peCAHN) 

We’d heard that there would be gale force winds south of us in the Albemarle Sound tonight.  It would mean strong winds in Elizabeth City.  Though the wind is gusting and the rain is blowing, we’re snug in our slip.  It’s supposed to pick up until midnight then subside.  Just might get some sleep tonight.