Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Boqueron to Samana and Visit with the Kids


We are now in South Side Marina in the town of Provo in the Turks and Caicos.  We have had many things going on and have been remiss about writing, so I’ll have to back track a bit.  All is well.


Boquerón to Samaná


Beautiful Manatee in full sail with shiny gray UFO* in foreground
* Unidentified Floating Object
 
We left Boquerón, Puerto Rico on the morning of May 12 in a very light wind and chop so motor-sailed the entire way.  It would have been wonderful to have had more wind for sailing, but we suppose we should count our blessings to have had an easy and uneventful crossing of the Mona Passage and, 28 hours later, a gentle entry into the Dominican Republic.  Along with our buddy boat, Manatee, we took a slip at Puerto Bahia Marina in Samaná.  Puerto Bahiá Marina is French-run and trés cool.  Fortunately it was not too expensive and was a convenient place to leave Wayward Wind for a few days while we traveled to Santo Domingo.  Rod graciously kept an eye on WW and periodically turned on the fridge. 

Wayward Wind in her berth
 
Dapper Dave at the dock


Lobby at marina
Lots of natural materials


Lovely lighting

Visit with Kids in Santo Domingo

On May 15, we rented a car and drove almost three hours to get to Santo Domingo passing through the edge of Los Haitises National Park, rice fields, coconut fields and finally along the south coast.  Most of the trip was on the new highway - a modern toll road - and very nice.  We stayed in a little hotel, Paseo Colonial, that was simple, clean and cheap right in the colonial district.  We parked our car on the street right in front at no cost, which worked out nicely, as we walked everywhere in the old town section.
 
Rice fields
The next day we drove to the east side of Santo Domingo to visit "our kids" whom we sponsor through Children International.  We first went to the central office where we were greeted by Daniel, who spoke English very well.  After having a tour of the office and meeting many of the staff, we were highly impressed with what they accomplish in their modern but compact space -- setting up sponsorships for over 31,000 children in the Dominican Republic!   They also have built five outreach centers.  We drove to one where we met our families and were also given a tour.  These centers have a small health and dental clinic where free care is given, sports facilities and classrooms.  In one class, a group of young teenagers led by an energetic young teacher were brainstorming ideas about how to inspire positive values in other teens.  They decided to create and present skits.  So inspiring!  These centers also have counselors, job skills training and parenting skills training.  The place was abuzz with positive energy.  Again, we were so impressed. 


Victor and his mom
Crystal and her mom
We shared the gifts that we'd brought for the kids.  Victor, age ten, loves to play baseball and wants to be a professional when he grows up, so Dave brought him a bat, glove and balls.  He also likes to dance and do art, so Dave got him some art materials.  Crystal, age seven,  mostly loves art, so I brought many art materials for her.  Both kids seemed a bit overwhelmed by these two weird-looking old gringos but were as polite as could be.  We went to a lunch at a the big mall at a local fried chicken place.  Daniel was pretty proud and said it was better than KFC.  I was amazed at how much fried chicken little Crystal eagerly put away.  She is missing both of her front teeth which makes her all the more adorable.  We tried to converse with them in our broken Spanish and also with their two moms who were quite amazed that we lived on a sailboat and had many questions.  Both moms are so kind and are going to school to finish their high school educations.  Victor's mom will study nursing and Crystal's mom will study accounting.  And little Crystal wants to be a lawyer!  We had such a nice time with them and look forward to sharing letters and future visits. 

Chowing down.  Daniel, our translator, in orange shirt.  Opolito, our driver, in white shirt.

Dan Phelan Community Center in Los Tres Brazos
 





Daniel's hand pointing out the playground

 
Until we meet again...

Saturday, May 11, 2013

Boqueron, Puerto Rico



Club Nautico where we dinghy over to get water.  We get fuel across the street at the service station.
Sitting here waiting for our weather guru, Chris Parker, to come on the SSB.  Check out his website - http://mwxc.com/index.php . We were fortunate to take some weather seminars from him when we were in George Town in the Bahamas.  He started forecasting the weather when he was a young lad and has been at it ever since.   It’s wonderful how a childhood passion can become a career.  He and his partner are also experienced sailors who lived aboard and sailed for many years.  They are now based in Florida.  Chris has helped many a sailor get along safely on passages.

On Saturday night, we settled down early as we were going to leave Isla Caja de Muertos around 4:30am to head to Boqueron.  Around 9:30pm, Dave was asleep and I was doing a crossword puzzle when I heard a motor outside, thinking it was another boat coming into the mooring field.  All of a sudden, spotlights were shining in through the portholes and a lone siren whooped.  Just the Puerto Rican Marine Police making a routine stop.  We only had to show our boat documentation.  We don’t mind as they help keep the waters safe.  As we watched them head over to Dream Walker without any lights on, I phoned Stan and Elizabeth to warn them so they wouldn’t be startled.  Stan told us the next day that he’d just finished listening to my message when the spotlights came on and their visit ensued.

Boqueron anchorage with Dream Walker (yellow sail cover)
We had an uneventful 10-hour motor to Boqueron on the west coast of Puerto Rico.  The winds were almost non-existent.  So unusual.  The only exciting thing was spotting a water spot three miles directly to the south. 

Water spout a safe distance away
 On Monday, Stan and Elizabeth gave us a little walking tour of the town as they’d stopped here last year.  We stopped at this little stand where Stan and Elizabeth enjoyed some fresh seafood.
Elizabeth and Stan enjoying local fare
Stan and Elizabeth left yesterday morning for the Bahamas, about four and a half days away.  We waved good-bye to them.  “We’ll visit you in Vermont,” I shouted as they went by.  “Bring your fleece!” replied Elizabeth.  Sure hope they are dodging the thunderstorms out there and that they have a good trip north.

Fair winds, Dream Walker!  See you in Vermont!
Yesterday we took two trips in to town to get water and diesel in our jerry jugs to top off our tanks.  This morning I worked on the refrigerator as it’s been acting up a bit.  Cleaned the contacts and replaced a couple of connectors.  Seemed to help.  We’ll see.


Nice nursery in town
Today Dave and I strolled around the town of Boqueron.  We’d read that it’s a town where college students come to have fun on the weekend.  When we arrived on Sunday, things were hoppin’!  Jet skis buzzed around.  Small motor boats raced around a course.  Music blared.  Right before sunset, a guy in a small home-made plane flew among the masts in the anchorage - a little nerve-wracking but kind of cool.  That night there were three very loud bands on a stage on the beach.  Today was pretty quiet for a Saturday.  It’s nice to see families enjoying the beach. 


Watch the masts!
Last night, we joined Rod and Evelyne for dinner aboar their lovely 36' Gozzard sloop, Manatee.  Rod prepared Ti Punch, which apparently is the national drink of Marinique.  (Hmmm, what's the national drink of the US...proabably Budweiser.)  Here is a webpage the tells all about Ti Punch http://rumdood.com/2011/07/14/ti-punch/ .  It's made of Rhum Agricole (smokier than rum), cane sugar juice and lime.  It's delicious.  Dave had a Pastis, the national drink of France  It is made from anise.  Evelyne is French and not surprisingly is a wonderful cook.  She especially loved the French West Indies where she could purchase some of her beloved culinary items such as cornichons pickles and lovely cheeses, which we had for dessert.  Rod is a graduate of the Air Force Academy and had a career as a pilot in the Air Force.  We met them in George Town and left together with two other boats to head south.  The seas were pretty rough that day, and the group of four fell apart and each went a different way.  It was comical.  We have stayed in touch with Rod and Evelyne for the past year and hoped that we would get the chance to travel together again.  And here we are!
 
Dream Walker motoring past Manatee (center) as they leave Boqueron
Tomorrow morning around 0800, Manatee and Wayward Wind will leave Boqueron to cross the Mona Passage bound for Samana, Domincan Republic.  It is 145 miles, so we should arrive on Monday around noon.  Unfortunately the winds are supposed to be very light, so we may have to motor-sail.  We were really hoping to sail without turning on the motor.  We’ll see.  Anyway, it's time to move on.

This is what happens when you stay around an anchorage for too long.  Growth at the mast!
 

Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Isla Caja de Muertos


 
Dream Walker about to pick up a mooring ball near the dock
 
Dream Walker and Wayward Wind moored off of Isla Caja de Muertos
 
Beautiful healthy deep purple fan coral... the most vibrant I've seen
 
05.04.13
 
Fan-fishing*-tastic!!!  (*fish viewing, not eating, that is)  One of the best of our trip!  We are moored at Isla Caja de Muertos where we are enjoying the unusual low – super light winds from the south with virtually no swell or wind chop – perfect conditions for snorkeling.  After we arrived, rested and waited for the ferry to take the fifty or so daytime tourists back to the mainland, Stan and Elizabeth dinghied us around the north side of the island where we dropped the little mushroom anchor and snorkeled away through the reef.  The water was amazingly clear and we saw many colorful reef fish and soft and hard corals.  We were in an area where the tourists don’t usually go, so the reef looked quite healthy.  I had a blast snapping photos.
 
Hello, fish!
 
Beautiful blue!
The staghorn coral was abundant.  None of us had ever seen such “fields” before.
 
Staghorn coral
Elkhorn coral
The elkhorn coral was healthy and thick.  I tried taking a video just for fun.
 
 
 
Approaching the island
 
After awhile, we continued dinghying around the island.  Isla Caja de Muertos is a small island about ten miles off the south coast of Puerto Rico.  The literal English translation is “Isle of Box of the Dead,” but gringos call it “Coffin Island” so named because of its casket-like shape.  It is dry, very dry, on this island which supports large cacti and scrub brush.  On one end is a rock precipice where a statue of the Virgin Carmen, the patron (or is it matron?) saint of fishermen, is located.  Apparently there are also petroglyphs, but those are not accessible to the public.  Nearby is the visitor center and small museum.  We did our best to translate the Spanish signs.  On the windward side of the island is a protected turtle hatching ground.  We didn’t see any turtles, but we were glad to see a fenced off area just for them.  On top of the isle’s central hill is a lighthouse and trail that leads to caves.  Stan and Elizabeth had hiked this trail last year when they were here.  We were planning on doing that this morning but opted instead to go snorkeling again since the conditions were so good. 
 
Patron Saint of fishermen, Virgin Carmen
 
South end of island with turtle nesting area - white spec inside round cave is statue of Virgin Carmen
Visitor Center
  
After our snorkel yesterday, Stan and Elizabeth joined us aboard Wayward Wind for supper.  They had caught a 2 ½ - foot barracuda and we had caught a 2-foot crevalle jack.  Dave sautéed them to perfection and, along with Elizabeth’s yummy cole slaw, we enjoyed a simple and sumptuous meal as we viewed a dramatic sunset from our cockpit.
 
Whoa!
Since the conditions were ideal, we adjusted our plans to have one more day of snorkeling.  After listening to our weather guru, we dinghied over to land and had a short walk around the south end of the island.  We then went to our boats, suited up, grabbed fins and snorkels and dinghied around to the east side.  We saw a couple of rays on the way.  We went to the snorkel area where the visitors go to follow the snorkel trail which is only about 8 feet deep and has informative plaques about the marine flora and fauna.  It was nice to be able to identify the coral and plants, but as Elizabeth said, “I noticed the fish were not at their stations.”  She also said that she was tempted to move one of the conchs over to the conch plaque.  Elizabeth and Stan are great conch collectors, but they fought their urge to grab the several enormous conch that we saw in the protected area.  We also spotted a large lobster attempting to hide.  Elizabeth said that it could not back any farther into its hole, and were it not in the protected area and had she her gloves and stick, it would have made a nice meal.  Lucky lobster. 
 
Conch info sign and
...the real deal
Lucky lobster!

While the three of us drifted and snorkeled, Stan swam back to get the dinghy to bring it nearer.  While at the dinghy, he spoke with RRRRamon, (roll that “R”!) who drove the snorkel tour boat for the visitors to the snorkel trail.  Ramon told Stan that it was the clearest he’d seen the water in over two years.  We are so fortunate to be in this beautiful isle and reef at this time.  It is amazing that such unspoiled beauty is only ten miles from the Puerto Rican mainland.  Many Puerto Riquenos visit the isle on the weekend for a day visit.  Today, after they left, we were the only two boats here.  So peaceful.  Below are more photos of our snorkeling.  And by the way, Stan and Dave both saw a blue tip shark.  I saw a three-foot baracuda. 
 
A large lurker...baracuda
School of Blue Tang
 
Not sure what these little yellow fish are

 
Fan coral and other soft coral
 
Cool coral
 

 
 
Elizabeth and Stan posing nicely by the dolphin statue...
 
 
and Linda and Dave...C'mon, Dave, quit mesing around!
 
That's better!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
05/08/13 Update -- We're now in Boqueron, Puerto Rico, on the west coast waiting for the next weather window to cross the Mona Passage to Samana, Dominican Republic, hopefully leaving here on Saturday with our two buddy boats, Manatee and Dream Walker.  More later.  Off to do laundry and provisioning. 

Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Puerto Patillas, Ya Mas

We’ve finally had something new to post.  We got the outboard fixed and hopefully the “must-do” projects.  During the daytime, we work on the other projects that eventually need doing.  Finally getting around to cleaning the topsides of the hull.  It’s not gleaming, but it is much better that before.  Also helping Don and Janis here and there when they need extra hands.  The other day I was cleaning the dinghy and heard Don call, “Linda!” and motioned me in.  Janis called and asked for help with pouring concrete.  Dave and I schlepped buckets of concrete up the steps to the second floor (Jan had back problems or she would have been schlepping, too) where Don was pouring a post and beam.  I never knew that when I set sail that I’d learn so much about concrete as I have the past two months.  We are glad to help. 


Don, Janis and Dave pouring concrete on one of the posts downstairs
 
Since we've been here, several cruisers have stopped by.  Don waves them in to enjoy refreshements.  Sometimes they stay a few days and help pour concrete. : )  A 40-year-old single-hander from Israel arrived and stayed for a few days.  Dubi - which means "teddy bear" in Hebrew was a lot of fun and even cooked ribs one night.  It's been wonderful to meet so many interesting people and hear of their stories.



Ans and Harry from Holland
Two French couples and a Dutch couple and Dave and Don

Dubi from Israel

 

















Dream Walker, one of our previous buddy boats, arrived in Patillas.  We’ve had a wonderful reunion.  On Sunday, Stan, Elizabeth, Dave and I drove to El Yunque, the United States’ only tropical rainforest.  The visitor center is beautiful with lots of ecological info highlighting the importance and fragility of the rainforest.  We took a brief hike to where a brook bubbled over boulders amid a lush green backdrop.  Idyllic. 


On the trail



Elizabeth looking for critters


 

Elizabeth and Dave hiking
Peak in El Yunque



















We are continuing the boat maintenance during the days that we aren’t doing groceries or other domestic tasks as well as doing a bit of local exploring.  Elizabeth, Dave and I walked fifteen minutes up the highway to the little grocery stand where they sell local vegies and fruit that are much nicer than what is shipped into the big grocery stores.  On the way, we were feeling a little hot and thirsty and there appeared a little stand in front of one family’s home with a welcoming “Pina Colada” sign.  We ordered, sans alcohol.  We were the only customers so we couldn’t figure out why it took so long to make a cup.  Then we realized that Mamá was blending fresh pineapple in the back.  Our lovely drinks came, one at a time, with a sparkly straw, Puerto Rican flag, whipped cream and a cherry.  A delicious, icy beverage to refresh us on our walk.   

Enjoying fresh pina coladas
We continue to listen to the weather and hope that the lows that are forming off of the East Coast do not bring too strong winds.  We plan on leaving Patillas tomorrow with Dream Walker to Salinas where we will fill the diesel tanks.  We plan on traveling to Boquerón together.  They will decide whether to make a long passage straight to the Bahamas or whether they will go to the Dominican Republic first.  Either way, we’ll probably leave Puerto Rico together.  Wayward Wind will head northeast to Samaná, Dominican Republic where we will spend at least a week.  We’ll take time to visit our sponsored children in Santo Domingo.

Linda, Stan, Dave, Elizabeth and Don enjoying the south Puerto Rican coast and each other's company

 

Puerto Patillas, Mas

April 1, 2013

The Condado Area, San Juan
Still in Puerto Patillas.  Since last writing, Dave has had two adventures.  A week ago Wednesday, we arose early to drive Janis to the airport to begin her weeklong trip to North Carolina to visit her daughter’s family and help them settle into their new home.  After dropping her off, Dave and I drove to the beach area of San Juan and strolled down the promenade.  The north swell produced huge rollers.  Other Puerto Riquenos enjoyed the early morning on the beach and boardwalk or were walking laps at the track across the street.  An odd mixture of new modern homes and run down fixer-uppers lined the street that overlooked the ocean.  We met a modest-looking man picking up litter and walking his little Chihuahua.  Giving it my best Spanish try, I asked him for a place nearby to have breakfast.  His response was in perfect English.  I asked him how he came to speak English so well.  He said that he’d studied medicine at Georgetown University and worked at Mt. Sinai Hospital.  That’ll do it!  Obviously he was a very bright man and here he was cleaning up the street and walking his feeble though cute Chihuahua.  He told us of a place, Kasalta, where we could get a light breakfast, and by the way, President Obama had a sandwich there.  My first thought was, “Uh-oh.  Pricey.”   We walked the several blocks and found Kasalta, a sort of early 60s, kitschy bakery.  Sure enough, on the wall were Spanish and English informative posters, each with a huge photo of President Obama eating a sandwich there in 2011.  Dave had fresh-squeezed orange juice and a grilled ham and cheese sandwich.  I had a vegie omelet and cafe latte.  Both meals were basic but tasty and just a little on the pricey side. 

 
Beautiful condos in Condado with a view of the beach across the street
But that wasn’t Dave’s adventure.  We’d read that the Trapeze School New York had begun a school in San Juan.  It took a bit of sleuthing, but we found it at its temporary location next to the Coloseo (coliseum).   The school will move in May to the new location next to Pier 8 at the port.  The manager, Michael, originally from New York, signed Dave up for a class that afternoon.  We met the other teachers, Scott, Caitlyn from Reno and Dave, who was one of the founders of the school in New York.  Other than a ten-year-old boy and Dave, the class was comprised of women – mostly 30-somethings and probably well-off.  There was a trio of three generations:  the boy, his mother and his 60-ish grandmother, which was very cool.  Ample kisses were bestowed after each one’s flight.  Dave had told the teachers of his prior trapeze experience – he was skilled enough to have performed in a county fair – but that it had been about 20 years since he’d last flown.  They had him go up and watched to see what he could do.  He looked great!  Everyone clapped and cheered.  After the first flight, he swung out of the net and walked over to me sporting a grin from ear to ear, his exhilaration palpable.  He said it came back to him like riding a bike.  He went up about eight times.  Dave practiced the layout, which is when he flips his extended body, heels over head.  So smooth.  The last three flights he tried to do a catch with Dave, the catcher.  They didn’t quite complete one, but if they would have had a couple of more tries, they would have gotten it.  Dave was a little disappointed about that, but so happy to have been able to try out the trapeze again.  He’s been talking about it for years.  He’s been doing push-ups and pull-ups which probably helped to ward off injury.  Still, after a week and a half, his shoulders are a bit sore but are improving daily.  Not bad for an old man of 62. 

 
Fly, Dave, Fly!
But that’s not all, that’s not all!  Just yesterday morning, we spotted some manatees munching at the edibles on the boat hull of our Czech neighbor.  Dave donned snorkel and fins and jumped in to hopefully cavort with the fat fellows.  The water was murky, so it was difficult for him to see them unless they were very close.  I more easily spotted them standing on the bow.  “Over there!” I’d shout and point.  Our neighbor put on his snorkel and fins and jumped off his stern to join in.  It was as if the manatees were playing tag and Dave the Czech guy were “It.”  The funny thing is that the Czech guy at one point said, “What are they?”  So he’d jumped into the water to follow some huge sea creatures but he didn’t know what they were.  Need I say that single-handers are known for their daring/kooky behavior? 

 
Manatees!
The manatees proved a bit too wily for the Its who returned to their boats.  Since he was already in the water, Dave requested a scraper and brush and began cleaning our hull.  A few moments later, the curious manatees were back and swimming alongside our boat!  Perhaps they were enjoying the morsels that Dave was scraping off.  They made several passes right by Dave who brushed their backs as they went by.  He thought they seemed to like that.  Wouldn’t surprise me as they had barnacles and greenery attached to their backs not to mention the blue bottom paint from doing their own hull scraping.  Dave loved this and even shot a short video of his romp with the manatees but I'm not able to upload it now. 

 
Dave and the manatees