Sunday, August 19, 2012

Carnival!

Cruiser getting into the swing of things
Several intrepid early risers boarded the van for J'Ouvert (jhoo-vay) at 4:30am on Monday bound for St. George's.  (Dave, considering them to be nuts, choose to stay behind in the peaceful realm of dreamland.)  The main road was crowded with Jab Jab (bands of "devils") from different parts of Grenada.  The Jab Jab, who traditionally covered themselves with molasses or tar, appear under the veil of early morning darkness to revel in the streets before the light of dawn.  Nowadays old motor oil or paints are used.  Needless to say, old clothes are the dress of the day. 



Early morning revelers










Jab Jab with horns







Another name for J'Ouvert is "Dirty Mas."  I think this implies two things:  one, the oil and paint and the other, the dancing.  A man will approach a woman from behind and the woman will start gyrating as the man slithers his hips against her.  It sounds nasty, but most men are not pushy about it and the woman has the choice to dance or not.  One guy came up from behind and, without touching me, asked me if I wanted to dance.  I told him thanks but I didn't know how.  He said OK and left with a smile.
Doing the dance, or "Winin" (wine-in)

Each Jab Jab band used either oil or a paint color to signify their town or region in Grenada.

Chartreuse Jab Jab
Silver Jab Jab

Plum Jab Jab

And oiled Jab Jab
Linda getting painted by a happy Jab Jab
In search of musical bands, we finally figured out that the "bands" were groups of people who banded together.  Often they were accompanied by a large flatbed truck with a DJ and a humongous set of speakers blaring rhythmic tunes.  I'll post a video clip that may or may not play.  If it doesn't, hopefully the still photos give a sense of the din. 


 

People do a shuffle walk to the beat that is called "chippin'."
Jab Jab band truck cruising by with LOUD music ablare


Lots and lots of people

Jab Jab in training
Back at the dock by 10:30am, Linda (on the way to the shower) and neighbor Wendy

And that was just the morning!  Stay tuned for our next installment where Dave joins Linda for the merry yet subdued Pageant Mas that afternoon.

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

We're Fine

Ernesto turned out to be a non-event for us.  Some strong wind.  Some heavy rain.  That's it.  Better to be over-prepared.  And now we're ready for anything else that comes this way.  As I mentioned, most storms turn north well before Grenada.  It's interesting to see satellite images of disturbances coming off the coast of Africa and observe them over the days as they cruise west over the Atlantic toward the Caribbean.  It's one after the other.  Sort of like a bowling ball, you wonder (at least, I wonder) which way the thing will veer. 

After the preparation and storm, the past couple of days we've been working with Darrell on the boat.  Right now we're repairing stanchions and life lines and yesterday, the autopilot, which will need a technician.  Lots to learn and do.  Also I've been emailing Garmin about our chartplotter and trying various fixes all to no avail.  So will wrap it up today to send with Darrell and Ann who fly to Florida tomorrow who will mail it to Garmin.  Fortunately it's still under warranty. 

I'm going to come home for a short visit to see my family and to pick up boat parts.  Hopefully I'll be able to squeeze in a few friend visits, too.  Dates are TBD.

The big news around here is that the day before yesterday, Kirani James won the Grenada's first ever Olympic medal -- a gold -- in the 400 meter race.  The government declared yesterday a half holiday, so all businesses closed for the afternoon.  Great day for Grenada.

Wayward Wind on her way to Grenada (borrowed from Alibi's blog, thanks!)

Thursday, August 2, 2012

Tropical Storm Ernesto

We just finished prepping the boat for Tropical Storm Ernesto.  Yesterday the storm was directly west of us, but it has moved a bit north, which is the normal path.  So unless it takes an unusual jog south, we won't be blown away.  We should get some strong winds and a lot of rain, but nothing too bad.  Still we lashed the sail, removed the bimini, and cleared the deck of all loose items.  Better to over-prepare.  Tomorrow we should have the calm before the storm.  On Saturday is when it will hit Grenada in earnest.  Or should I say, Ernesto. 

Rollin'. Rollin'. Rollin'.

Written 8/1/12

After a rolly day and an extremely rolly night, we are eager to go to another bay.  On Monday, all six of us took local buses to St. George’s and St. David’s Bay to investigate marinas.  Celtic Rover and Alibi are interested in mooring balls and Wayward Wind is interested in a slip for two months because we need to have a lot of work done and it will be much more convenient to be at a slip with ample power and easy access.  Also, admittedly, we’re treating ourselves a bit.  The marina in St. George’s is too funky (even by our standards) and urban and right next to the main road so exposed to anyone walking by.  The boat yard in St. David’s is quite remote in a lovely natural environment, which would be nice if you were writing a book and needing isolation, but a bit too far from markets and such for us.  It is great for leaving a boat on the hard for hurricane season, which is what our friends on Manatee did. 

Beautiful Manatee all buttoned up awaiting her crews' return on November 2.
At 7:30 every Monday through Saturday morning, the local cruisers net is broadcast.  I’ve mentioned that these nets provide a wealth of information of local events and services.  One section, “Treasures of the Bilge,” is where folks can offer up anything that they want to get rid of.  The moderator or other cruisers are happy to answer any questions a newbie might have.  In St. Martin, we asked about a good refrigeration service.  A local cruiser who specializes in refrigeration chimed in and later came by saving us a trip to a marina and a bundle of money.  In fact, he didn’t charge us anything (“I didn’t fix anything.”) because he determined it was an electrical problem, so we contacted his cruiser electrician friend to come by later. 

Cruisers are the most helpful people I’ve ever met.  Actually, regarding the refrigeration issue, (I may have mentioned this) both Bruce and Scott almost seemed upset (bless their hearts!) that we didn’t go to them first before we got a “professional.”  Scott called us to find out what was going on then gave us suggestions.  Bruce simply showed up, started trouble shooting (which I’d done to my limited ability) and the darn thing started working again so the electrician did not need to come after all.  Time to clean the contacts.   Both Scott and Bruce made it clear that we should at least ask them when we need help.  We are acutely aware of our mechanical limitations and do not want to constantly burden our buddies with our problems.

Back to Grenada.  Grenada is fringed with several deep, well-protected bays along its south coast each sporting one or two marinas, which we’d planned to investigate for our potential new “home.”  The day before yesterday, my interest was piqued by an announcement on the cruisers net about a yoga class at Secret Harbour Marina in Mt. Hartman Bay, the next bay to the east.  Someone else there was organizing a hike.  Yoga and hiking, “Like.”  Yesterday Dave and I went to Mt. Hartman Bay and visited Secret Harbour Marina.  It seems to be what we’re looking for – close to bus stops and markets yet somewhat rural and somewhere between funky and fancy.  http://www.secretharbourgrenada.com/  The entrance of the bay is edged by swell-quelling reefs so little roll.  Yes!  While visiting the little restaurant, we met a cruising couple on Tiger Lily who are anchored out and gave us the lowdown on the area.  We walked the docks and met a couple who’d returned to the marina for their second season and gave it a good recommendation.  We spoke with Marlene (“like Marlene Dietrich”), a friendly French woman who runs the office.  Of course, it’s not perfect, but we’re planning on heading over today and staying for two months.  Again, anyone who wants to visit lush, humid, relaxed, green, hot, beautiful, intriguing Grenada, please come. 

Must mention two “interesting” encounters.  First, yesterday morning while I used the ladies room at Prickly Bay Marina, Dave began chatting with a British fellow having coffee.  He invited us to sit down, so I ordered a coffee, too.  Quickly it became clear that his opinions on the state of the world and religion were stronger than the coffee.  He spoke of “the illuminati” (which another friend had mentioned) who are a super wealthy elite bent on controlling the world by controlling water and food sources and putting two thirds of the world’s population into slavery.  And they follow Lucifer.  He spoke of his belief in the Almighty ad nauseum.  I don’t mean to offend anyone, and I’m an equal opportunity believer, but there are Christians and then there are Christians who give Christians a bad name.  I’ll say no more other than I can see why he is a single-hander. 

As we walked over the hill toward Secret Harbour Marina, a young guy in an SUV pulled up and asked us if we were going to the marina as he’d give us a lift.  We hopped in and he raced off, driving like a madman on the narrow hilly lanes.  Holding one Chihuahua on his lap and two more in the back with Dave, he rat-a-tatted out like a machine-gun, “I’m in a hurry because someone just stole my baby Chihuahua when I was in the parking lot and the dogs were near me and I turn to pick up the “sheet” and throw the bag in the bin and a truck drove away fast and I thought ‘Why he going fast with the dogs there?’ then the baby was gone and I try to find him but I know who he is I cannot believe he took the baby Chihuahua…”  We screeched into the parking lot, hopped out, and he looked again for the puppy.   There, in a little drain pipe, the tiny pup peered out.  “Oh, there he is!  Sorry I drive so fast.”