Leaving George Town

Just a quick note.  We are set to leave George Town tomorrow.  Two other boats will join our ranks along with Plane to Sea.  It's nice to have others to bounce off route planning and weather concerns.  We'll head to Conception Island tomorrow and Rum Cay on Friday where we'll wait out a bit of a blow on Saturday.  On Sunday, we'll check on the coming front and hopefully sail on to Mayaguana.  We need to be in a protected anchorage for Monday evenings' front which is supposed to last a couple of days.  Fortunately one of the boats, Manatee, has email connection through it's SSB radio and is signed up with Chris Parker's weather service so gets personal weather and route planning info from Chris.  Both couples (the othe boat is Dream Walker) are very nice and all are new to this part of the Bahamas.  (so we're all in the same boat -- couldn't resist that one)

Wayward Wind's electronics are not so current, so we will be out of email contact for a while.  All is good.

Black Point to George Town

02.22.12

Don and Dave on a water run in Black point

Early in the morning before we left Black Point, Dave and Don went on a water run in the dinghy.  The town of Black Point has a community spigot with reverse osmosis (R/O) water.  Cruisers dinghy over with their 5-gallon water jugs and schlep them across the street to the spigot, fill up, then dinghy back to their boats and pour the water into their tanks.  It certainly makes one appreciate and conserve water.  When we are in a port where we need to fill up with diesel, we usually fill up the water tank, too, but the Nassau water, as previously mentioned, was rusty, so a marina does not necessarily provide good water.  Actually we just carefully poured off the clear water that we’d collected in jugs and figured we were fighting anemia with the extra iron from the rusty water.  What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger – one of my mottos.

We motored from Black Point to an anchorage near the cut between two cays into the ocean.  Since Allan’s Cay, we’ve traveled on the west side of the Exumas over the shallow Exuma Banks.  From this cut, Galliot Cut, we would enter the ocean into the Exuma Sound.  (In the video, I meant to say the Cut joins the Banks and the Sound.)  The anchorage was pretty windy, but we arose before dawn and motored through the cut at 6:25am, just after the tide had turned and before the wind picked up.  When the wind blows strong and the current is opposed to the wind, the waters in the cut can be quite rough especially because the water funnels through the narrow cut which considerably speeds up the current.  Sometimes there will be a standing wave that one must pass.  The boat does not go over the wave as it would a swell out in the ocean; rather the bow plows through the wave causing green water to pour over the bow and into the cockpit.  The confused seas don’t last for long, but friends say it’s scary for a brief time.  The trick is to try to plan to traverse a cut during slack tide or close to it.  Our planning paid off going out of Galliot Cut as well as into Elizabeth Harbour through Conch Cut north of George Town.  The ocean leg was about six hours, so we hit Conch Cut at slack tide as well. 

On the way down, Dave put out the fishing line and caught a tuna that was about 30 inches.  Not sure what kind, but it was sure delicious that night.  Even Don, who does not like tuna, tried it and said it was not too bad, and that’s a good enough compliment for us!  Dave reeled the tuna up to the boat, gave me the pole and gaffed it to pull it aboard.  I jumped back and forth from the helm to steer a little then to help him get what he needed, too busy to grab the camera.  He sprayed rum in its gills to settle it down then whacked it with the old winch handle.  I thanked the tuna for giving up his life for us.  He was a beauty.  Dave cut up the fish and put the pieces in baggies.  It is enough fish for several meals and we are grateful. 

The ride down was part motor sail and a couple of hours of just sailing, which was lovely.  We made good time.  George Town is a destination for many retirees or semi-retirees mostly from the States and Canada.  It is also a good provisioning stop for those continuing south (or north) like us as there are many services.  Some call it the Mecca of Bahamaian cruising grounds.  I call it a summer camp for retirees.  Every morning there is a cruisers’ net on the radio where the day’s and week’s events are announced.  It happens that this Monday is the opening day of the George Town Regatta that lasts for two weeks.  We will leave soon after it begins but will get to see the opening night festivities, which we hear is a lot of fun. 

George Town sailboat "race"

Today there was a sailboat race in the harbour and we had front row seats.  The course was two laps, but after one lap, one boat announced that they were going to the Chat and Chill for conch salad.  Our friend, Tam, on Ask For, also was sailing about with his new crew.  Such a beautiful boat. 

Ask For out for a spin

Tam and crew on Ask For

Cap'n Tam

The most popular hang out spot in the afternoon is Chat and Chill Beach.  The Chat and Chill is a little restaurant/stand on the beach right next to Volleyball Beach where two nets are set up – one for regulation volleyball and one for novices.  The many picnic tables under the trees are where you’ll find knitters, basket weavers, domino players, and any other sort of game players.  Dave takes his backgammon board there.  It’s a great place to meet new people.  We’ve even met some friends from Annapolis, Fernandina Beach, Nassau and other places we’ve visited.  Even though we’ve just met these people briefly here and there, when we run into them again, it’s always a joyous occasion as if we’re meeting long lost friends.  There truly is a bond between fellow cruisers.

Chat and Chill Beach

In the photo above is a little hut, right of center, where you'll find a heaping bowl of conch salad for $10. The cook tosses the conch waste into the water where a couple of stealthy looking but friendly rays swim and wait. Dave likes petting the rays who feel soft on top. A couple of little girls, braver than I, were even putting their hands under the rays' mouths. So cool.




As chance would have it, Chris Parker, the weather guru arrived in George Town on Sunday.  Chris, who runs the Caribbean Weather Center and gives weather forecasts Monday through Saturday on the SSB from his home in Florida, is giving seminars on various aspects of weather for the low cost of $5.  Dave and I went to the basic weather seminar, and I attended the Bahamas weather seminar this morning.  Understanding weather is crucial for cruising.  Both seminars cleared up many foggy (yuk-yuk!) areas. What luck in timing!

In the maintenance department, after many email exchanges, we decided to buy a “good, used jib box” from Paul, the Freedom guy in Rhode Island.  Don and Jan’s friends from Texas who are coming on Friday hopefully will bring the part with them as we had it mailed to their home.  We hope to find someone who can help us install it here.  We have other minor maintenance that we must do while we’re here as well. 

No time for maintenance right now for I must make an appetizer for the Sundowner get-together at Sand Dollar Beach.  All is good. 

Up the Mast

Dave photographing the jib box from atop the mast

Since we...I...broke the jib halyard back on the ICW, we are still looking for a solution.  When Jeff went up the mast back in Charleston, he discovered that the sheave (roller) for the jib halyard was missing, which meant that either it failed OR the pin holding the sheave went cockeyed causing the sheave to drop down the mast.  Either way, we need to repair it.  Sleuth that he is, Jeff found a guy up in Rhode Island who worked for Freedom Yachts (out of business for many years) for eleven years and knew exactly what Jeff was talking about.  Paul said that this failure was not uncommon and Freedom designed a modified jib box to resolve the issue.  I emailed the previous owner for more information and sent this plus sketched dimensions from a yellowed fax dated 1996 I'd found onboard.  Anyway the Freedom guy, Paul, said photos would enable him identify the jib box and help him to figure out what we would need.  This meant that someone had to go up the mast. 

Dave rose to the occasion (pun intended).  Yesterday morning while it was still calm, we enlisted Don to be the liaison between me at the winch and Dave in the bosun's chair as he went for a 63-foot ride straight up.  He got the necessary photos as well as completing a few minor repairs.  We sent the photos off to Paul who quickly replied with some options.  Now we have to decide how to proceed.  We seem to spend a lot of time on the Internet, when we have it, to help us with repairs.  We are fortunate to have that technological luxury. 

Jib Box

After his space flight, I asked Dave, who beforehand was a little nervous, how he felt.  He was tangibly exhilarated and said he really liked going up the mast and once he knew that the halyard would not break, he felt great.  He even said he felt like diving into the water from up there.  I'm glad his enthusiasm did not take him that far.  Great job, Dave!

Yesterday we went for a long walk to get some nice views of the island.  After we returned to town, we visited the All Age School for their little festival.  It was winding down by the time we got there, but we had some snacks.  We also donated money to the school for the use of filling our five-gallon water jugs at the community faucet to replenish our stores.  We are very careful about conserving water.  Most of these island do not have a fresh water source.  Water is shipped in huge tanks on barges so is quite precious. 

While at the festival, I asked one of the mom's about the school.  She said that it goes from Kindergarten through grade nine.  Students go to Nassau to finish high school and either stay with relatives or rent a place.  Kids were playing relay races when we got there.  It was a modest school but with familiar looking bulletin boards.

Last evening we ate dinner at Lorraine's, one of two restaurants here in Black Point. Even though we'd made reservations and it was a fixed menu of barbecue meats and side dishes, we waited an hour for the food. Island time, mon. We didn't know what we were getting ahead of time as Lorraine told us that it would be a "surprise" and cost $16. Turns out it was a chicken drumstick, white fish fillet, mystery meatballs, mac and cheese with hot pepper, rice and peas and mixed broccoli/cauliflower/carrots. It was a lot of food and pretty tasty. We were satisfied.

Another cold front will be coming through in a couple of days, so today we will travel about three hours to Galliot Cut to anchor out and prepare for the sail tomorrow out in the ocean.  Thusfar in the Exuma chain, we have stayed in the western lee of the islands and sailed or motored southeast along the shallow, protected banks.  Tomorrow we will arise before dawn and go through the cut at first light.  Fortunately the tide will be slack so the current should not be strong.  We'll then "turn right" and hopefully sail, or at least motor-sail, southeast along the eastern shore of Great Guana Cay.  All of these plans are contingent upon where the wind is.  We listen to weatherman Chris Parker every morning on the SSB radio.  It's fun to hear other people in such places as Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, the Yucatan, and even Marathon, Florida ask about the weather for their journey to the next place.  Chris says that here the wind is supposed to be from the south and clock around to the southwest.  We are hoping it will be more southwest so we can turn off the motor and just sail.  It is 36 miles in the ocean, then another 6 miles or so through Elizabeth Harbour to George Town.  After that, as the cold front passes through, the wind will clock around, to west, north, then east.  Then the winds are predicted to be 20-25 which, although the harbour is fairly protected, means a wet ride in the dinghy, so we may stay on the boat for a couple of days.  And that's the way it is.

Exploring Staniel Cay



Lavender house with Bahamian flag design on fence

We've spent the past days exploring the roads and trails of Staniel Cay. Love seeing the brightly painted houses. Whereas houses were painted in pastels in Marsh Harbour, here they are boldly painted in solid colors. Perhaps it is because the waters are rich tints of aqua, turquoise and dark blue. And the colors are always changing as the light changes by the moving sun and passing clouds. Tonight right after the sun set, I looked at the water and it was a steely light blue/green/gray. I'm continually astounded by the shifting colors and their beauty.



This afternoon the wind finally calmed enough so that I could give Dave a haircut. He was going to get it cut in Nassau, but it would cost $30. I told him I'd cut it for $20. : ) No more Albert Einstein do.  Two days ago Dave and I explored the north side of the island and found some secluded little beaches.  One had a swing which was a magnet for Dave.  We also walked to over some rocks on a point that overlooked the Atlantic. 

Dave can't pass up the opportunity to fly through the air



Contrast in pink and aqua

Yesterday Jan, Don, Dave and I went for a long walk on the south side of the island. We stopped at Isle General Store, aka the Yellow Store. It was closed for lunch from 12:00 till 1:30...or 2:00. We sat at the table and chairs on the little covered patio out front and enjoyed the view of the water then continued our walk. Homes are spaced far apart so it feels rural. There is a range from modest to opulent with most falling in the middle. A long slough cuts quite a distance into the island's interior. Many of the homes are situated on this shallow tidal waterway and have a beautiful view of light aqua water and sandy beaches. We walked down the driveway of this pink home which also had a view of the entrance to the ocean. Absolutely stunning. 

We turned around and stopped again at the Yellow Store, which also is the local hardware store, and bought lettuce.  Then we headed back to the boat. We enjoyed our warm, sunny walk.

As it was Valentine's Day, we invited Don and Jan to have dinner aboard Wayward Wind.  Dave and I had previously cooked up some chicken breasts, so we added potatoes, carrots and tarragon and made soup.  Also had a tossed green salad with fresh whole wheat and coconut white bread from the bakery.  Don prepared the beverages and I have a new favorite drink...Salty Dog.  A lovely evening with good friends.

Tomorrow we will head to Black Point just eight miles away.  Laundry and real showers are long overdue.



"We need tourists..."  Dave says, "as shark bait."

Staniel Cay

2/9/12

Food Scrap Fish

The other day, I emptied some food scraps overboard and these little guys (about three feet long) darted out from under the boat to snatch them up.  Gave me quite a surprise.  And, yes, the water really is this color.

On Tuesday, we had a calm 4-hour motor to Staniel Cay.  Though the wind was right on the nose, it was light and the waves were only 1-2 feet so did not slow us down.  Though we would have preferred to sail, motoring was pleasant enough.  The winds lately have not been conducive to sailing in our direction.  It’s OK because we are only going short distances in order to enjoy many of the cays that dot the Exumas.  Our next stop, Black Point, is only about 8 miles, so it’s hardly worth uncovering then covering the sails, which takes almost an hour.  Actually we are passing by many cays that either are private or do not offer a calm anchorage.

Staniel Cay has a small village, the first of any type of town we’ve seen since we left Nassau a week ago.  It’s fun to be in “civilization” again.  As we pulled into the marina dinghy dock, a woman holding a camera said, “Oh, you’re scaring away the nurse sharks.”  From the dock, sure enough, three nurse sharks swished by, right next to our dinghy.  A woman in a passing dinghy shouted, “Don’t worry!  They’re so docile you could kiss them on the head.”  I’ll just take her word for it.  Two sting rays swam by, too.  What were they doing so close to the dock in such shallow water?  Ah, just beyond the dock, a man was cleaning his fish on a table and throwing the waste into the water providing a yummy snack for these critters. 



Nurse shark below the dock at Staniel Cay

A friendly ray cruises past the dock



We got the lowdown on how to find the grocery stores – the Blue Store and the Pink Pearl – but still we got a little mixed up.  As we walked, an elderly American man drove by in a golf cart, so we asked him for directions.  He chatted a bit and told us that he and his wife own a home here on the island where they have spent the past 17 summers.  He used to own a small plane so would fly back and forth from the East Coast, but now they fly commercially.  Dave can always peg a Rhode Island accent, and sure enough, the man was from Rhode Island and did, in fact, sound just like Dave’s dad.  We eventually found both stores which were vividly painted as their names suggest.  We visited both but just bought cold canned pineapple juice and fresh banana bread.  We found out the weekly mail boat would bring fresh produce the next day and to come back around noon. 

We had a nice walk seeing the small boldly colored homes, hens and chickens scurrying across the lanes, and the old dogs lounging in the shade.  We stopped by the marina bar/restaurant which claims that it is on Jimmy Buffet’s top ten list.  It is a sweet, low-key place (though the prices aren’t low-key) and enjoyed the view from one of their outdoor tables while we relaxed before dinghying back to our boats.   That night, Dave and I could see someone doing a fire dance onshore probably in celebration of the full moon, which had risen and was smiling down at us.

Yesterday was a technology day.  I was able to get on the internet briefly so sent a quick note to our families, as did Jan.  I also helped her set up her wireless booster antenna.  Imagine me helping someone else with technology!  But we got her done!  

We are enjoying a low pressure system, so it's quite calm and in the 80s.  We're anticipating a strong cold front on Saturday and Sunday that is predicted to bring 20-25 knot winds from the north.  Since we're in such a well-protected anchorage, we'll make sure our anchor is set well and stay here.  Early next week we plan to head to Black Point, the second largest population center of the Exumas, where we'll do such exciting things as laundry and real showers.  After that, it's on to George Town, the largest town of the Exumas and "cruising Mecca."  It's nice to stay in one place for a few days to explore it further and take care of small maintenance on the boat. 

Visiting native

Nassau to Exuma Land and Sea Park

02/06/12
Back into internet realm though I would not say into civilization. We are well. It’s not exactly hot here -- seems to always be in the seventies with a strong breeze -- but we’re not complaining. 

Policeman directing traffic in Nassau

Enjoying lunch at a stand overlooking Nassau Harbour

On Wednesday Dave and I showed Don and Jan our favorite sights (hmm...both were places to get food) and a couple of new sights that we'd read about.  At the stand above, Don is having a conch burger, and Dave is having red snapper.  Jan and I are having conch salad which is raw conch marinated in lime and orange juice with a touch of goat (habanero) pepper chopped up with tomatoes and green peppers.  Yum!

Don and Jan picking out some produce from the market

Crab, anyone?

Jan and Don ascending the Queen's Staircase

We were going to leave Nassau on Friday, but the weather shifted making Thursday a better bet.  So we (Plane to Sea, then us) got to the Nassau Harbour Central Marina right when it opened at 7am.  Of course, no one showed up till 7:20.  Ahh, well.   Chill, mon.  We added water to our tank and filled a five gallon plastic jug.  The water was orange!  We stopped filling the tank but had already added many gallons.  (Turns out it was rust as a reddish-brown powder has settled on the bottom of the jug leaving the water virtually clear two days later.)  At 8:15, after filling up with diesel and gas for the dinghy, off we went.  We were able to sail just after leaving Nassau Harbour in an east wind the whole way across the Yellow Banks to Allens Cay.  It’s strange to be sailing in 10 to 20 feet of water with the sandy bottom in view below for miles upon miles.  I’m getting used to judging the depth, but it is a little unnerving at first after being in deep waters.  In the middle of the Banks, it gets to be 8 feet (we draw 5 feet) and coral heads are dotted about.  Fortunately they are dark black and can be spotted if the sun is overhead.  When clouds float by, though, they are harder to see.  We made it over the banks just fine and anchored in a lovely spot between two islands at Allens Cay.  The adjacent island, Leaf Cay, is home to Bahamian iguanas that scramble out of hiding when a boatload of tourists comes round doling out tasty morsels.  It was quite windy and rolly in this anchorage, so we stayed onboard on Friday and listened to the weather reports. 

Iguanas on Leaf Cay

On Saturday we sailed to Shroud Cay.  Chris Parker, who gives the Caribbean weather report Monday through Saturday at 6:30am on the SSB radio said we’d be in for a “brisk sail” in our neighborhood, and brisk it was.  A lot of fun though a bit damp.  The anchorage was lovely and just a little rolly.  After settling in, we picked up Don and Jan and all dinghied into the nearby lagoon on the island.  So beautiful!  We landed and walked along the beach and rocky shore.  So much vegetation – small palms, shrubs and mangroves.

Yesterday we motored for three hours to get to the Exuma Land and Sea Park on Warderick Wells Cay.  The four of us dinghied to the visitor’s center/gift shop where we picked up a small map of hiking trails.  We thought we’d be able to sign up for internet, but it is only available to those who take a mooring ball and not to those anchored out.  We walked up the beach and took the trail across the neck of the island over to the ocean side.  We passed over BooBoo Hill where a monument of weathered driftwood with the names of various visiting boats is piled.  We sat on the hill and breathed in the glorious 360 degree view while we picnicked.  The island itself is considered a dessert island as it does not get much rainfall.  It is fairly green with plants that have various adaptations for collecting or saving water.  Some plants “drink” salt water and emit salt on the bottom sides of their leaves.  The mooring field is a thin crescent-shaped channel, and beyond that are the anchorage and another mooring field.  On the other side of the island is a shallow bank that leads out to the open ocean.  The water’s bands of color do not seem real:  light aquamarine to dark turquoise to cobalt blue with all shades in between.  As we enjoyed our snacks and the view, all four of us expressed our disbelief that we were really here as well as our gratitude for being able to take this journey.     

Across Warderick Wells Cay are Plane to Sea (l) and Wayward Wind (r)

Overlooking the ocean from BooBoo Hill

Mooring field at Warderick Wells Cay