Saturday, March 24, 2012

Mayaguana

Hi there!  Sorry it's been so long.  I tried to write the day before we left George Town but was unable to get online.  Below is an email I sent to family two days ago from Abrahams Bay Mayaguana.  Will leave for Luperon, Dominican Republic tomorrow around noon and hope to arrive there on Tuesday morning.



We are well and waiting for weather in a remote anchorage in Mayaguana, in the southern Bahamas.  The plan was to motor or motor-sail ENE directly into the wind for five or six hours toward Cape Santa Maria on Long Island, then turn the corner for a nice sail to Rum Cay, another several hours ESE.  We left George Town with three other buddy boats on a blustery St. Patrick’s Day morn.  We could only motor as it was fairly rough and the wind was right on the nose, so two of our buddy boats chose to head south, one to a closer anchorage, another to try a route down the west side of Long Island.  Soon after, the third buddy boat called saying that they had a major oil leak so had to return to George Town.  One of our buddies called to say that another boat, Spray, was traveling where we wanted to go so we might try to contact them. 


It was a tiring ride, so we anchored in Calabash Bay at 1:30 and decided to go to Rum Cay the next day where we would have to wait out the weather for the next several days rather than push straight through to Mayaguana.  Dave and I rested, for a couple of hours.  I looked out the porthole and saw a sailboat motor-sailing by coming from the south.  Could it be Spray?  I radioed, and it was!  (I’d met Lutz and Krina the week before as Krina had held a little stovetop bread baking workshop aboard Spray.)  Long story short, Lutz told us their sailing plan, which was to carry on overnight to Mayaguana.  We got excited about the idea and within a couple of minutes called back to say we would tag along.  


We motor-sailed the first part, then sailed the rest in an ENE wind 50 degrees off the nose.  The seas were bouncy, 5 feet just off the nose, not too bad.  The last few hours we reduced the sail to the second reef and were still doing 6.5-7.0 knots!  Lutz explained how to nose up to the western shore off of Russell’s Bay and drop anchor.  We arrived 41 hours after we’d left GT at midnight where it was so much calmer in the island lee.  The next morning we motored five miles up the long and reef-riddled Abraham’s Bay where we’re now waiting in strong winds for the next window in a few days.  It’s a little rolly, but not bad.  We’re glad to be here and have been doing boat projects and this morning visited the small village with Lutz and Krina. 


In 1985, Lutz and Krina began living aboard and have traveled the Med, Atlantic, US East Coast, and Central and parts of South America.  Lutz is from Germany and Krina, from Holland.  Learning so much from them.   Kind, kind souls.  Must keep this short as am trying to send via satellite. 


Hope this finds our buddies well and sailing along smoothly.  Next stop for us, Luperon, Dominican Republic with Spray.

Love to all!!!
Linda and Dave


Monday, March 5, 2012

George Town Blow

Just realized that my post about staying on in George Town till after the current front -- the most significant weather event of the season -- passes did not actually post.  We remain in George Town till who knows how long...

Woke up this morning at 1:00 am to gusty winds and some rocking.  It was about 20 knots then though thankfully not too rolly as we are protected from ocean swell here in Elizabeth Harbour.  We are located on the outer edge of the anchorage off of Chat and Chill Beach so no boats behind us.  Checked on things around the deck and anchor to find all was well.  Looked up and noticed a boat cruising in and, lo and behold, it was our friend Tam on Ask For who ended up anchoring just down a ways from us.  He’d left George Town for a few days and I’m sure was glad to be back in the harbour.  Went below to work on a crossword puzzle when I heard more voices.  Another boat cruised in and anchored between us and Ask For.  I noticed in the morning that this boat has a yellow quarantine flag which means that they’ve just entered the Bahamas after a long sail.  Bet they’re glad to be here, too.  Dave also got up for awhile and adjusted a water jug on deck, then went back to sleep.  I tried to go back to sleep but just dozed. 

Early gray Monday morning, 25 knots

After preparing coffee and oatmeal, I went on deck and listened to the weather.  Sounds as though we’re in for a sustained blow as the front lingers over the south central Bahamas.  During his forecast, when Chris Parker got to our neck of the woods, he said, “Oh, George Town is really getting it!”  Today we’ll have 25 knots which is not bad, but the kicker is that tomorrow and Wednesday will be worse and the wind will not go below 20 knots till Friday.  Tomorrow we’ll have sustained 30 knot winds with gusts to 35 and squalls (short windy bursts of rain) to 42.   Fortunately we are protected by Stocking Island so no ocean swell and the current is minimal.   We hope that the next front that is developing on the US East Coast will not develop into another nasty front. 

Every morning the George Town Cruisers Net comes on the VHF radio to tell us of the events of the community, lost and found items, and where to take our garbage.  Since the George Town Regatta is occurring this week, we’re getting the news of the scavenger hunt, fun and regulation volleyball, softball, sand sculpture contest, arts and crafts show, model small boat, dinghy, and big boat races and more, but with this wind, a few of the events have been cancelled.  Of note, Terry (a Jersey gal, I am sure) announced that she regretted to say that the poker run in George Town had to be cancelled as it would not be safe for players to cross the harbour in their dinghies.  She requested that we ask God for good weather for the poker run. 

We spent an afternoon and a morning figuring out how to get our jib box here.  The internet “store” is a bright green cement building with a moldy wooden roof and, I think, a dirt floor.  It is run by a sweet, young Bahamian couple.  We needed to have our cruising permit scanned so we could send it to the folks who are shipping the package.  The internet their was verrrry slow.  Found an agent who will take care of customs.  All told it will cost about $100 to ship.  That’s the way it is.  The store also has a US phone line, so you can call the States for only 15 cents a minute.  Beats the $2 a minute on my cell phone.  Gave TJ and Mom a call.  So great to hear their voices. 

Winch Wench

The day before yesterday, I took apart our winch to lubricate it.  It took a long time, but I cleaned then greased and oiled all the parts and put it back together again. I was pleased that there were no left over parts and that it seems to work.  Now I can do the other winch.  Some boats have as many as eight winches.  Thank goodness we only have two.  As I worked, the 18-mile sailboat race around Stocking Island took place.  As we're on the edge of the anchorage, we had front row seats at the finish line.  It was nice to listen to the commentary and watch the boats come in as I was doing the winch job.  A cat called, Glory Days, and a mono-hull were neck and neck on the last leg.  The cat pulled ahead for first place.  It really was beautiful to watch the boats in full sail.  The hero of the race, though, is an assuming 26-foot sloop called Magic Frog.  Everyone loves and roots for Magic Frog.  One thing I love about this community is that it doesn’t matter if you have a million dollar cat or a forty-year old fixer-upper salvaged from a field.  People, for the most part, are accepting and will jump in to help when needed. 

Big boats racing in Elizabeth Harbour

Hooray for the mighty Magic Frog
We’ve met another nice couple with whom we plan to travel, along with Plane to Sea, south.  They are Rod and Eveline on Manatee, a classically beautiful, both inside and out, Gozzard 36.  Yesterday we had the calm before the storm, so Rod, a retired air force pilot, and Eveline, a pharmacist, decided to go snorkeling.  It wasn’t that spectacular but the highlight was seeing a lion fish, a fish that looks as though it sports turkey feathers that stand straight out and happens to be highly poisonous.   We kept a respectable distance.  Lion fish, however, are considered to be a delicacy.  The poison is in the “feathers” so one must be meticulous in cleaning and preparing this fish dish. 

The night before last, we had dinner aboard Wayward Wind with Rod, Eveline, Janis and Don.  Janis prepared spaghetti and I, a large salad with locally grown tomatoes and peppers.  Eveline brought delicious herbed cheese and crustini along with a nice bottle of wine and a dessert cake.  I look forward to these evenings in the cockpit as we watch the sun set and enjoy each others’ company.  Aside from the occasional mechanical issues, storms, and hassles with getting parts, it’s a nice life.